Like a toque-wearing Moses, Andre Rochat parted the waves of Las Vegas budget buffets in 1980, taking the food of his local France to a culinary desert. Rochat has ever since added Andre's in the Monte Carlo and Alizé at the Palms. But his provincially designed flagship in a 1930s-era down-town house-with 4 cozy dining rooms, every representing a different French metropolis and ornamented by using lots of wood, tapestries, and soft lighting-is even now really going strong, owing partly to a menus that has both equally traditional French dishes such as coquilles Saint Jacques (scallops in a wine-enriched cream sauce) and many with updated twists, such as grilled quail with figs and prosciutto. Entrée prices begin in the mid-30s.